things

Jul. 25th, 2017 10:27 pm
mandie_rw: (1860ssunset)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
- At this point in time, I feel moved to almost offer my condolences to those of you going to Costume College; you guys seem so stressed! (Not all of you...but a lot.) I guess when you're a veteran it's worth it...? but as someone who's never been, it sounds pretty miserable at this point!

- Beige print bodice of never-ending-ness and its silly cuffs are done, although not in time to get pics today. Hurray! This damn thing's dragged on waaaaay too long (long enough that I'm tired of the bottom half before I ever got to wear the top half!).

- I've gotten fairly tired of my red spoon bonnet (yes, I'm still keeping Gettysburg in mind, even as I work on Belvidere); after all, I've been wearing it since 2011! I still love the color (shocking I know), but it was a synthetic, albeit a decent one, and it's fairly crap construction-wise, involving a polyester lining and even *gasp* glue. I know. 2011 was a long time ago. *grin* But I sternly told myself I wasn't allowed to replace it unless I sold it off first. Amazingly, somebody bought it (actually two somebodies tried to buy it), and I sent it off today. So that'll just about pay for the two yards of taffeta to cover and trim the new one! Well, it'll be two yards if I go with the navy option, as I would trim that in pink...but I keep coming back to a brick red and copper shot that's baaaaasically the same color as the bonnet I just got rid of! I might have a fixation on dark reds, you guys.

(The solution here is obviously to make two bonnets. Ha ha ha.)

Or no new hat...

Jul. 25th, 2017 04:35 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
I was enjoying working on the hat last night, and then I wasn't. So I decided I was done, and I'm wearing the antique hat.

With that, I'm ready for Costume College!

beige bodice, one more time

Jul. 24th, 2017 11:46 pm
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
I thought I was almost done...but then as I was ironing the pleats of voile for the white collar, it occurred to me that I ought to have cuffs as well! Damn. Wish it hadn't occurred to me, haha. I could make plain ones, but I know that pleated ones to match the collar (and the upper side of the dress fabric cuffs, for that matter) will look better. Okay, okay...

It's supposed to be in the low 80s tomorrow and Wednesday, so I'll gussy up and get photos one of those days (it might rain tomorrow so I can't promise tomorrow). And then I can wad the whole thing up into my 19thc costume bin and be done with it, whew! It's been hanging around for far too long. And then back to the dinner dress! I think.

Hat...

Jul. 24th, 2017 04:47 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
The suffragette hat frame is done. I had to do the curved part of the crown twice since I set it too low the first time. I think it's going to work. It's at that awkward stage where your hair isn't done and the opening isn't lined and the buckram base has awful stitches, but it's promising!

boning is a thing that I should do

Jul. 24th, 2017 04:58 pm
hiraimi: (Default)
[personal profile] hiraimi
 I clearly really need to bone my green stripy natural form. OMG, what wrinkles! It's not surprising, since it's a lightweight cotton and I only interlined it with muslin, which basically added no support. But wow such wrinkles. One of these days I need to just buy a big hank of synthetic whalebone (still using up cable ties, since they're cheap and locally acquirable) so I can bone bodices without adding lots of bulk. I always *mean* to bone my bodices and then never have time before i need to wear them, and of course once I've worn a thing it's hard to go back and fix things. But I have quite a few dresses that would be improved by the addition of boning, so.....

Fort Mott Boer War Event

Jul. 23rd, 2017 08:10 pm
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
Second Boer War, to be specific.

(The Facebook event just said "Boer War", mind you, with no dates. Apparently this is colloquial for the second war...but as 1/ we didn't know this til yesterday as that's when the park put up the event description, and 2/ none of us have c.1900 summer dresses anyway...we cheerfully assumed it was the first war in the early 1880s, as that's what we have clothes for. As assumed...nobody cared. *grin*)
boer war 1
Read more... )

Robin's flickr album here

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sweating my tits off

Jul. 23rd, 2017 08:23 pm
robinsnest: (Default)
[personal profile] robinsnest
Apparently there is a Fort at the tip of NJ named Fort Mott. I just learned this as somehow via the magic of Facebook [personal profile] mandie_rw , [personal profile] miss_philomena , [personal profile] hiraimi and I found and ended up at a Boer War reenactment there today. Now the even just said "Boer war and Victorian something something something" so I googled Boer war and went "perfect I have 1880s"...Guess who didn't tell Robin there are apparently TWO Boer wars. Cause if you're gonna get in a fight over something the british like to do it twice. 100 years war, revolution and war of 1812, WWI and WWII....luckily for us no one disowned us for wearing our 1880s natural form dresses.
Untitled




 
I of course got a bit turned around when picking Alice up so we were a few min late, I think Amanda and Adrienne saw the entire event in the 20 min for us to catch up...oops. I did a quick change in the parking lot, much to the stares of the family BBQ. *ahem excuse me as I drop my skirt. yes I'm wearing bloomers*




We got there just in time to huff it up the walls of the fort to watch the "battle." I know I know the military half of this isn't MY personal jam but I'd rather you just did a weapons demo, because a battle of five vs 10 is still pretty silly looking unrealistic. After a 5 min battle in which the Boer's won we promptly left the hot pavement in search of shade and the picnic lunch we had packed.




Luckily for us our friend Mick was there (of Belvidere fame) and we pretty much parked our butts under his tent fly for the rest of the event, sans one quick run to the loo where a probably 8 year old girl was DETERMINED to get some quality first person reenactment experience.


"Are you waiting for the men to come home?"
"What men?"
"But are you waiting for the men to come home?"
"No I'm going to the loo..."

This dress was always intended to have more trim, so as a way of making myself work on things for September BEFORE said month I tried to get more of the trim put on this time. I also got the overskirt made, but only partially trimmed. And I have to say I'm HUGELY pleased with how it turned out.
Untitled


Left on the list is the brown band and top row of ruffle on the overskirt, if there's yardage left I want to add more fullness to the back of the overskirt, I cut it way to skimpy to try and leave enough for trim. I also either need to lose weight or add a placket in the front and move the hooks and eyes over in the bust as it's pulling and gapping and that's bad. oh and bone the bodice. okay I guess it's a long list still...never ending.

I did manage to sweat through everything. It was only in the 80s but with humidity to rival Louisiana, easily one of the hottest times I've gone out in costume. but I always think of myself as someone who does horribly badly in heat and I've done several hot weather things recently and been really proud of how well I did. I loaded up with water the day before, drank tons the day of, and ta-da I survived!

Definitely the Brunswick!

Jul. 23rd, 2017 03:28 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
So, I pulled out the Brunswick, tried it on (sort of, no corset or anything) and remembered the super tight sleeves. Hmph. So, instead of doing the sensible thing and getting something else out, I spent I think about three hours redoing the sleeves. It was fairly easy, just fiddly. Strangely, the upper sleeve was much easier than the lower sleeves, which are just basted in. Those had practically no seam allowance which made it weird. The sleeves all have lapped seams now instead of the original types they had. It's much easier to sew a lapped seam on a set sleeve and a sleeve with almost no seam allowance.

Then I packed and noticed it was three and I hadn't really eaten anything and *thud*

beige bodice again, again

Jul. 22nd, 2017 11:57 pm
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
I was pretty lazy as regards sewing today...I could have gotten the bodice all finished if I'd really tried, but...didn't. xD Tonight I tried it on, "it's really almost done! just need to finish the neck! I could totally wear this tomorrow!", but only had it on for about 35 seconds before I remembered why I wasn't pushing myself to finish and wear it tomorrow. Hot! (The sewing room is un-air-conditioned, and it's still 82 at midnight. Shirtwaist 'tis!)

So I just need to put a facing in the neck edge - Bodice Take 1 had a collar, but that collar doesn't fit anymore, plus the fit of the neck at the back is just a wee bit funky still, and it's a lot more obvious with a collar on. I did a brief survey of my books, and it looks like a ton of early 1880s had just a white collar, rather than a dress-collar-and-white-collar combo. So I have zero qualms about doing a plain finish! (I could pipe it, but I don't want to and you can't make me.) I do still have to make a white collar to tack in, unless the one from my blue wool 1878 dress will work. Don't think it will as that's a v-neckline and this one is much higher, but we'll see.



unnecessary chemise is unnecessary

Jul. 22nd, 2017 09:37 pm
hiraimi: (Default)
[personal profile] hiraimi
 Tonight I'm watching Rogue One on Netflix while finally sewing the lace to my (completely unnecessary) chemise. I really should have started with a corset cover, since I haven't got any and I could use one. Oops? Anyway, the armholes are belaced and the neckline+lace has a bajillion pins (due to the stupid linen refusing to stay creased, grrrr), ready to be stitched down.

Also is it just me or is this movie reeeeeeally slow? I'm an hour in and it's only JUST gotten any real momentum.

Costume College!

Jul. 22nd, 2017 02:11 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
I think I have a lineup for Costume College! Took me long enough...

Thursday--Beach pajamas, 100% done

Friday Day--Suffragette day dress. Technically 100%, but I want a new hat and new sash, neither of which are mandatory. I have my daisy votes for women ribbon, red, white, and blue one, original button, and a reproduction banner. I really want to make the hat though because I came up with the pattern myself and really want to see how it goes together.

Friday night--Suffragette evening dress. 100%. I'm worried about forgetting to pack the tattoo. After last year forgetting all my jewelry...

Saturday day--Checked Brunswick. I just moved the neck button on my cotton habit shirt that I made about a zillion years ago. I tried on that and the linen shirt I made to go with it in 2013. Not only did the older one fit better, which is a little embarrassing, none of the ruffles were torn off. And the neck button needed to be moved on the linen one too, so easy choice.

Saturday night--Beaded Regency. Another technically 100% because it's done and wearable, but I want the pink springed corset which is almost done.

Sunday day--1790s bird dress. Yes, I just wore it, but I love the construction and birds.

And nicely, these aren't, except for the Brunswick, large costumes. So I'm hoping through strategic packing to have room for large amounts of stash. I've also decided to bring thing things I want to sell. I may be nice, but I'm not giving away 7 yards of silk brocade I'll never use. Either way, I'm freeing up lots of space. Now, time, is another thing! But my leftover stash is pretty much sorted, so it'll just be determining what's free and what's not...

Spring corset number two...

Jul. 21st, 2017 10:32 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
I was so happy with the first springed corset, I decided I needed another one, if time worked out. Although I fit the straps on the green one under the beaded dress, I didn't trust them to stay--they did need to be pinned under the bird dress which has a higher neckline.

So now I have a pale pink one started. The springs are in. It has a flat section at the center back and the straps on either side of that. It'll be interesting to see how it works!

I think I can finish tomorrow...

oops

Jul. 21st, 2017 11:30 pm
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
Sewed in the side wedges properly, and reboned all the seams today - and then noticed I'd managed to sew it with the bodice front twisted round itself. Whoops. I'll just unpick the shoulder seam, as that's the path of least resistance...

Tomorrow.

(Forecast for Sunday is currently in the mid-80s, so I don't have any pressure to get it done in time for that! Ugly shirtwaist carries the day yet again.)

beige bodice again

Jul. 20th, 2017 11:38 pm
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
Mostly successfully futzed with the beige bodice today to get it to fit - it's not really 100%, but it's vastly better than before. (And when all's said and done...it's not the most attractive print in the world anyway. So.) I will have to put a wedge in the sleeves to get them to fit, but I didn't have to piece in the front of the armscye, so that's good.
beige bodice front
I didn't get around to actually taking the basting stitches out, cutting lining pieces, and sewing the awkward fixer-pieces in properly...but I'm off tomorrow so I can do it then. (It's definitely going to be too hot to wear this bodice if we do go on Sunday, but I'd like to finish it anyway! Just putting it on and taking it off got me all hot and grumpy. I think I need to acknowledge to myself that just 'cause it's cotton, doesn't make it a Philadelphia-summer-appropriate dress...)
beige bodice side
There are some stupid side wrinkles that I don't think will come out even when the side's reboned, but oh well. I'll just consider myself lucky I could get the damn thing to fit at all and call it a day! Not all home sewers in 1880 had perfectly-fitting bodices, right? ;)

Done!

Jul. 20th, 2017 07:42 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
I tried on the suffragette evening dress and decided against basting the skirt and bodice together. It seemed like it would work unbasted, but I pinned it anyway. Then the pins came out a little wonky, and I decided it would be fine.

I needed another tuck in the petticoat. After doing the first five nicely, I did the world's sloppiest tuck above the ruffle. I'm sure it's not the first petticoat to have a giant sloppy tuck.

Then I tried the suffragette day skirt on over the petticoat to see if it would work, and figured I may as well mark the new closures, so those are done. I moved the snap, but just added extra bars instead of moving them.

So, I think everything that has to be done is done. I still want a new hat, but...
hiraimi: (Default)
[personal profile] hiraimi
 There was a sewing party on Sunday, at which i got the bias ruffle sewn to the skirt. I did a bit of knitting for my 1860s shawl (do I need one? no. But I have a bunch of handspun yarn and I barely know how to knit, so garter stitch shawl it is! And this yarn is pretty heavy so it should be pretty warm.), and cut out a chemise from the Grimble book I just bought. Here's a not-secret: I basically wanna make everything in those books. Every page I turn - "I wanna make that one, and that one, and that one too...". Let's start with a chemise, shall we?  Naturally it requires wide lace for the neckline and armholes, which I haven't got. So I went to Jomar's lace sale on Tuesday afternoon with my bestie and got something that might work (as well as lots of other things I really don't need).

Yesterday morning at work I was hauling things about and totally busted my bad shoulder, so I'm not allowed to knit for a while. It was super fun tossing and turning and waking up last night from the pain, let me tell you. Next time I have to haul stuff around, I need to remember to take painkillers BEFORE it starts aching! Durrr. This evening after work I creased the edge of an armhole down and was about to start pinning the lace on when I realized the pins are downstairs, so that's as far as I got, hehehe. Might as well rest my shoulder, I guess, since there will be more Hauling Of Stuff tomorrow at work.

Before and After!

Jul. 20th, 2017 05:20 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
2017-07-20_05-20-42 IMG_20170720_171249

Before and after--no tucks and tucks!

I hate making tucks, but as I was doing it, I just reminded myself that adding tucks to a petticoat is much faster than making a new petticoat. And they're pretty!

I think this is short enough to wear with the suffragette evening dress now. And it should be a good length for the day skirt too, so I can pack less. The petticoat and a corset cover is much better for packing than a petticoat and a princess slip! And my new goal is to pack as little as possible so I can take as much extra stash fabric as possible...

Now, closures on the suffragette evening skirt...

Done!

Jul. 19th, 2017 09:14 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
The beach pajamas are done! I even secured the threads on the ends of the darts. I should probably whip the seam allowances, but eh.

On to more little things! Except for wanting another spring corset (with different straps), everything now is small.

beige bodice

Jul. 19th, 2017 11:12 pm
mandie_rw: (1860ssunset)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
I finished sewing the hooks and bars on this afternoon before work, but didn't quite have enough time to suit up and start fussing with fit, so indulged in flights of fancy re: my planned turn-of-the-century wardrobe. (My Voice of Fashion and Turn-of-the-Century Fashion Patterns and Tailoring Techniques books arrived yesterday, so that helped with the distraction. The latter may be a bit beyond me, but I never mind having something to work up to, and at the very least the pattern shapes will be helpful!) I sincerely doubt I'll have time to throw a dinner dress into the mix, but it's very amusing to plan out!

Tonight I intend to get the buttons sewn on the beige bodice (yes, buttons over hooks...after testing out hooks and bars vs buttons for years, I've come to the conclusion that I generally prefer hooks to fasten tight-fitting victorian bodices! Much less annoying to do up! And then slap the buttons on top), which was delayed by my putting the buttons away while cleaning up a while back. Never put stuff away!

Also: spent money today I totally shouldn't have. But Dita von Teese added Philadelphia to her touring schedule this fall, and the pre-sale went up today...and I just couldn't not go! I'm much more of an enthusiast of Dita's style than necessarily burlesque in general (I think it's cool! but I wouldn't call myself an enthusiast), but I wouldn't turn down an opportunity to see Queen Dita! I texted a college friend who's also a fan..."can we turn this opportunity down??" "NO WE CANNOT!"...so I'll be going with her on September 15th. Woo!

(Well I think I need a new dress...!)

Blaaaa...

Jul. 18th, 2017 09:01 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
I wasted the entire night trying to get the turban for the beaded dress to work. To make myself feel better (or something) I tried wrapping the shawl that I've used as a turban before and wrapped it cutely in about a minute. I think trying to to it in voile or voile and silk was the issue. Oh well.

So I decided to go turbanless (I don't want the faux sequined shawl for this) and actually tried to do my hair. I never practice hair. But I found out that my tiny curling iron will curl my hair from straight, which is good. I may or may not wrap the strip of fabric I hemmed for the bird dress around my head. We will see.

The plan had been to make the pants for the beach pajamas. And fix the straps. I moved them a tiny bit after checking them and didn't check them again. Never a good plan!

But it's earlyish. I still may do something...

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