llyrafantasyfae | (no subject)

(no subject)

Question about patterns. What is the/your opinion on JP Ryan patterns for 18th century. Are they better than the Big Three patterns? I have no problem with altering a pattern to make it more correct, I just need a starting point. This is a completely new era for me so I need that starting point, and at this point don't wish to completely scale up something new. I am still bitter about my epic fail on the Edwardian so I want to ease into the 18c.
If JP Ryan's patterns are complete crap any suggestions on other patterns?
I am mostly looking at the tops, bodices and jackets. I think I can accomplish a petticoat without the patterns.

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I actually have a JP Ryan pattern and patterns from the big three (check my blog silkfrocks to see the dress) and to be honest with you it was easier to drape a pattern from "The Cut of Women's Clothes" that gave me the best pattern/dress of all.

I've heard both good and bad things about the patterns. Helpful, right? ;) I can't comment on the dress patterns but my first pair of 18th century stays (which was also my first historical garment) was from the JP Ryan stays pattern. I was really pleased with it. It is sometimes a lot easier when starting a new era to have something to go by.

FWIW, I've used the JP Ryan half boned stays and anglaise patterns, and had very good success with both. Maybe I'm just easy to fit or something. I did make plenty of reference to Patterns of Fashion and Costume Close-up and blogs by people I trust to know their stuff. I don't have the equipment or the confidence to drape from scratch, but didn't find it hard to adapt the JP Ryan one. The pink wool gown I wore at Costume College is from the anglaise pattern. The only thing I'd definitely do different is make sure the center front is on the bias instead of the straight of grain. I don't know why Ryan did that; it's clear from scale patterns and patterned garments in museums that center fronts were bias!

Kannik's Korner patterns are supposed to be very good, too; I love their cap pattern. Country Wives patterns are also supposed to be very good. I haven't used them yet, but I have every intention of trying them soon. Wm. Booth, Draper carries their lines and also J P Ryan.
http://www.wmboothdraper.com/
B&T carries KK and JP Ryan.
http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/womenspatterns.aspx

I wouldn't go with Big 3 patterns because they're intended to be costumes, not repros. At least the J P Ryan patterns are designed to be worn over stays, not a modern bra. Plus Big 3 add in tons of ease, which makes everything wonky. Way more trouble than it's worth, in my opinion. The Ryan patterns use modern construction (unlike KK which give all handsewn techniques), but I'm also learning that there is no One True Way to assemble anything 18th century. So I wouldn't get caught up in construction techniques necessarily!

A Fashionable Frolick's tutorial on petticoat making is all you'll need from that standpoint...
http://fashionablefrolick.blogspot.com/2011/04/threaded-bliss-tutorial.html
... unless you want to wear it over big side hoops, in which case I'd also reference Katherine's page for specific help.
http://koshka-the-cat.com/18c_petticoat.html

Costume Closeup has scaled patterns as well, including a shift or two; you don't need to buy a pattern for that.

I love Hallie Larkin's blog, because she really cares about being correct. She's got a great post on shifts from a few months ago, but there's fascinating info all through her blog. She tends to do mini-series of posts.
http://thegoldenscissors.blogspot.com/

I've used the JP Ryan fitted back pattern as a base before. You do need to play with it to get it to fit you but the same goes for any pattern.

My 18th century block is modified from a JP Ryan pattern. I drafted my own sleeve based on the one in the Janet Arnold books because there was no was the JP Ryan one was going to come close to being right! So yeah, just echoing what others are saying - JP Ryan is a good starting place, but modifications will have to be made for it to be right.

Avoid the big three at all costs!

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