Sew all the things

[llyrafantasyfae]

With midterms next week, this weekend is the last span of time to finish my Explorer outfit. So I'm making a list, because I like list! And to bore all of you senseless my plan is to check in each night with an update picture and list status.
Left to do:
Whipstitch last 3 boning casing to bodice portion
Add front skirt facings
baste lining into top of dress (I know now the lining would have been sewn with the rest of the fabric not as a cover the insides layer. But my                                               brain is already wrapped around my current plan and because of my timeline I can't rethink this mid stride. I know                                               for next time.)
Sew together sleeves
Attach cuffs and cuff trims
Attach lining
Set sleeves
Add green binding to CF edges
                              to bottom edge
Sew collars together
Attach collars to dress
make (x) buttons
make buttonhole with machine on scrap. Make one by hand. Determine which one I am going to use.
make (x) buttonholes
Figure out how I am pulling the skirt fronts back and securing them. Then do said plan.
Line hat
Bind edge of brim
Pleat fabric for brim
Figure out Ribbon/feather decoration and attach
Braid hair for hair attachments
Re-fluff/bustle bustle
Okay... so that list is slightly intimidating...
Question: Does anyone know of a tutorial or good site that explain how to set Victorian sleeves? I am looking for something similar to koshka_the_cat 's 18th century sleeve setting tutorial. I thought I remembered a good one but either I have a faulty memory or I can't find it now. 

Comments

[kaesha-nikovana.livejournal.com]

Oh my goodness, you have a very full weekend ahead! I'm not aware of any good tutorials for setting a Victorian sleeve, so I always just set them like a modern sleeve and hope for the best. Sometimes I battle the sleevils, sometimes not. I hope you don't have any, and that the rest goes smoothly as well!

[llyrafantasyfae.livejournal.com]

I was leaning towards just setting them like a modern sleeve but I'm at the stage in my sewing were I am attempting to be as historically accurate as reasonably possible. Though the census seems to be Modern sleeve is the route to go. YAY! I know how to do that. Crossing fingers for no sleevils also.

[ktlovely.livejournal.com]

I don't remember seeing a Victorian sleeve tutorial--I would just set them like a modern sleeve. At least, that's what I do for 1860s although to be fair that has its own idiosyncrasies. Still, you make up the bodice and sleeves separately and then sew them with right sides together + appropriate position/ease. I *think* with Victorian stuff you just sew all the layers as one, no need to use the lining to cover raw edges or anything, but YMMV.

[nuranar.livejournal.com]

Yep, what she said. The only "special" things are that (a) generally the "underarm" seam actually goes at the front part of the armhole, instead of directly under the arm, and (b) they are much easier/look better when set in by hand than by machine. Usually I pin it smoothly under the arm, and ease in the sleeve elsewhere.

If you do want a tutorial, I'd look first at Jennifer Rosbrugh's site, Historical Sewing. That sounds like exactly the sort of thing she'll have.

[llyrafantasyfae.livejournal.com]

I wonder if that is what I am thinking about. I took a class with her on how to make a Victorian Day dress. Maybe the info I am thinking about came from her. Unfortunately my computer crashed since I took that class and I don't have the info any longer. BOOOOOO!

[nuranar.livejournal.com]

She's super nice; I'll bet if you emailed and asked her, she'd provide the stuff you lost. :)

[llyrafantasyfae.livejournal.com]

Thank you for the info!